her grandmother called her from the playground
“yes, ma’am”
“i want chu to learn how to make rolls” said the old
woman proudly
but the little girl didn’t want
to learn how because she knew
even if she couldn’t say it that
that would mean when the old one died she would be less
dependent on her spirit so
she said
“i don’t want to know how to make no rolls”
with her lips poked out
and the old woman wiped her hands on
her apron saying “lord
these children”
and neither of them ever
said what they meant
and i guess nobody ever does

–Nikki Giovanni, “Legacies”

These toasted coconut biscuits are reminiscent to scones, but since I’m Southern, they are unquestionably biscuits made with my grandmother’s biscuit cutter. They pair perfectly with honey, jam, or lemon curd, and the coconut flavor and texture is so fragrant and unexpected.

I know I’m not the only person who always has a lingering half-full bottle of buttermilk in their fridge after they’ve made biscuits, cornbread, or even a cake. I always plan to make something to use up the extra buttermilk, but before I know it, it’s expired and has to be thrown out. Enter in: coconut cream! It comes in a can with a long shelf life, and the can will mostly be used up with one batch of these biscuits.

COCONUT BISCUITS

Makes 13-15 biscuits

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) baking powder
• 1 teaspoon (3 g) kosher salt
• 3/4 cup (40 g) unsweetened shredded coconut, divided
• 6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, chilled
• 3 tablespoons (37 g) sugar
• 2 tablespoons (14 g) powdered sugar
• 1 cup (240 mL) coconut cream*, chilled

*The cream and liquid can separate a bit in the can. You want to use as much of the liquid you can, so dig beneath the coconut cream or stir very well. 

INSTRUCTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Spread the coconut on the baking sheet and toast in the oven for approximately five minutes. Keep an eye on it–the coconut can go from lightly browned to burnt quickly! Once toasted, take out of the oven and set aside. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F.

Cut the butter in to small pieces, and keep cold until you are ready to use it (I always stick it in the freezer).

Whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, sugars, and about half of the coconut.

If using a food processor, process the flour mixture and butter until the butter is pea-sized or a bit smaller. Add the coconut cream (start with just a 3/4 cup and work your way up from there) until the mixture clumps together. Add the remaining coconut and pulse to combine. It should cling and create a ball around the blade. Alternatively, use a pastry cutter.

Lightly flour your work surface and roll the dough to 1″ thick and cut out the biscuits. Gently knead together and roll any scraps to cut more biscuits.

Place biscuits touching together on the baking sheet, brush the tops with coconut cream, then bake in the oven for 16-18 minutes or until golden. (Tip: place the baking sheet in the freezer for about 10 minutes before using).